Category: Wednesday

The train is pulling into the station. It is already close to 10 PM, we have heard from Queena, she and Sarah have made it to the AirBnB. The long day full of uncertainties is beginning to close down. Back in the States it is not quite 5 PM, so we have plenty of stored daylight in our woke bodies. The exit from the station is all up steps and escalators. Tina and I walk out into the opened street, our bags weigh us down. It has been raining and the temperature is in the low sixties. There is an open air resturant and bar to our left. A band is playing Country Roads, “Almost Heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains,” I hope they are not giving it their best shot, for if they are I should join them. I feel for the thumbpick hanging on the necklace I am wearing around my neck. Tina is working to catch a signal on her phone so we can call an UBER to take us to the AirBnB where our party of souls can reconnect. The main drag we are on is four lanes across. A bus stop is in front of us and the traffic on this side of the street is coming from the left. I am already feeling disoriented and at a disadvantage. After much reorienting to receive the best signal, Tina finally catches and signals an UBER who is arriving in the next five minutes. A bus comes from the left and stops. The bus is two stories tall, it is a skyscraper on wheels. Not only that, but it sneaks up on a person from the left out of the blue. This is just not right.

Tina says our driver should be just around the block from where we are standing. I look across the street at what seems like a dangerous foray into the unknown. Loaded down with bags, I am on all alert. But I see a car round the corner across the street to our left, it pulls to the curb and lights flash once or twice. I tell Tina, I think this is our ride. From where we are standing, we are not certain if the UBER would find us or we would find the UBER, or maybe something in between. I cross the lanes of traffic, then come back, uncertain of my next move. I cross the road once more and I tell Tina to follow, with few options beyond blind luck, i believe this is our ride, in a city I have never set foot in and a part of the world I am totally unfamiliar with, this is my best guess, Tina crosses the road with me. At the car the driver asks, “Tina?” and we are on our way. Once again, our luck prevails.

The driver, from Poland, drives us through lit streets telling me about charity shops, “there is one, this whole block is a line of charity shops.” I ask him, because I thought before packing my boots in the States, that I might just buy a pair of boots in a thrift store and then return them before our return home. But in the last minute, I packed my hiking boots nonetheless. (Good thing too). I found out before leaving the states, that the thrift stores are called charity shops in the UK. So I ask our driver about charity shops, just to show I am educated.

The city at night looks like any other city at night. I see a carnival in a field as we drive by. Our driver tells us the Fringe Festival is beginning this week in Edinburgh, is that why we are here? I tell him no, it is just a coincidence, but we plan to see what it is like tomorrow. He says everybody is here for the Festival. It will go on through the rest of August. The driver takes lefts and rights and all from the left side of the road. Eventually he delivers us to a corner where we all believe is the location of our AirBnB. Sure enough, there are Queena and Sarah waiting for us outside on the wet roadway.

We are all together now, the day is nearly over in Edinburgh, while back in Virginia it is still only late afternoon. The last 24 hours have been packed and I am ready for something to eat or drink or both. Our corner of the world, appears to be shutting down. Queena leads the four of us to our AirBnB. It is dark and smells dank; we walk up a set of stairs to the door of our “flat” I am thinking, reaching for the terminology of our new old world. Tina and I take a short tour and put our bags away, it is a relief to finally reach this destination, point B from point A. I am swimming in the accents, comfortable so far with understanding. I am in the wading pool in the world of travel. I am by no means fooling myself.

We decide it is time to check out the food situation. We exit the AirBnB into the damp and dark streets. The street lights cast more shadows against line of buildings along the streets. Shadows even Jack the Ripper could appreciate. Queena and Sarah have already explored the neighborhood shortly before our arrival. We find a possible spot to eat, Tuk Tuk Indian and Street Food , we walk inside. But this place is holding a private party and we weren’t invited. The menu posted on the entrance looked inviting but it will have to wait as a distant possibility in our short stop in the neighborhood. We cross the street and find The King’s Arms that looks like it is still serving. Once inside, I look around and see what must be regular customers warming regular spots. They eyeball the four of us. I ask the woman behind the bar if they might still be serving food. “No,” unfortunately. I make a mental note to check this out later, it looks like they might serve fish n chips in addition to scotch and beer. I am determined to explore the scotch here. We finally stop in an Indian restaurant, The Everest, that is still serving for another thirty minutes. We sit down at a table in the front by the window. The staff happily serve us wine and food and we happily eat and drink. It is all good, but I am surprised how early everything appears to shut down here. Then again it is Wednesday evening and we are on the outskirts of god knows where in Edinburgh, half way around the world.

Two twenty something year olds can absolutely find their way from one place to another on their own. We just didn’t plan it that way.

After learning that Tina and Papa’s flight had been cancelled and ours had been rescheduled, there was a severe lack of confidence in the future of our travel plans due to our navigation skills. After some hugs and them wishing us luck, we eventually made it through security and onto the plane for the last hour and a half of our trip to Glasgow. 

Although we felt a sudden wave of relief after walking off the plane and into the small Glasgow airport, we still had to figure out how to make it to Edinburgh on our own. Walking out of the airport, we laid our eyes on the rows of taxis waiting to take anyone with a credit card to wherever they needed to go. We hopped into the first cab that came to us and met Cornelius (Neil for short). He chatted us up and told us we were making a mistake going to Edinburgh over Glasgow. About halfway through our hour journey we had the pleasure of speaking to Neil’s wife via Bluetooth who told us that he was a bad driver. Thankfully, he proved her wrong and got us to our destination safely. Although we did come unnervingly close to some double decker buses. 

Once we pulled up to our Airbnb Neil, who seemed to notice our hesitation on what apartment door we were supposed to go through, asked us if we had the lady’s phone number and called her to determine the correct door. After a little back and forth, Neil hung up and walked our bags to the correct door. We thanked him for good conversation and driving skills, and he thanked us for the £125 bill. After getting the key out of the lock box we opened the door to a much needed shower, and began our adventure. 

Later we got locked in that same bathroom, but that’s a different story…

I have always like riding the train. I like how when on the train one can just sit back and watch the scenery pass on the long windows. I like the steady rhythm of the wheels on the track. Passing towns and neighborhoods that are all but forgotten, where the American dream has moved on to another neighborhood, while gentrification is is but a vague future blocks away from the rail. But the first thing I noticed as we began our trip North on the train from King’s Cross was how absolutely quiet this ride was.

The rail cut through green fields dotted with white sheep. The towns we passed or stopped in to let off passengers or pick them up were tidy communities without empty factories or warehouses you see along the rails in the United States. All this view was from the comfort of a quiet ride without the rhythm of the wheels marking irregularities in the rails they rolled on. I later found out the reason for the smooth ride was the British rail moved mainly passengers and with a minimum of raw goods or materials. In American, the trains are mostly for moving cars of coal or tanks of industrial fluids. American trains do not move people as a rule. It is shame, but will likely change as we realize we can no longer support a fossil fuel economy. This English train moved at 125 miles per hour in between stops. The conductor checked our tickets and soon came back rolling a cart of sandwiches, cakes, tea or coffee in the aisle of the car. Tina finally got some food in her while I drank in the treat of the landscape out my window. We were finally on our way. We would arrive by 10 PM. We had no way of knowing if Queena and Sarah had made their flight, all we had was the trust that they too would get to Edinburgh via Glasgow. All that was left to do was to sit back and enjoy the ride.

Heathrow

Something was not quite right but I didn’t know it at the time. I watched out the window to my left, watching the tarmac roll by under the wing. Heathrow, we were in England, all of us for the very first time. So this could have been any other airport (they really do all look the same through the passenger windows), but this was Heathrow and the pilot was explaining to us that we would be unboarding from the stairs rolled up to the plane to the aircraft door, loaded onto buses and driven to the British Airways terminal. We boarded one of the many buses that were being driven to the parked aircraft and exited after driving around the tarmac to the terminal lower level. Finding our way up the escalator and into the frantic confused eyes of a growing mob. People were scrambling not quite knowing what was going on. The four of us just had minutes to find our connecting flight to Glasgow. We found the board listing all the flights, only to find confusion. The mob of people grew and some found their way into lines (or queues in the native tongue). British Airways information staff scurried among the crowd answering frantic questions from passengers with no direction. Tina checked her British Airways app on her phone finding our flight had been cancelled. Queena and Sarah found they were reassigned to a later flight in the day to Glasgow.

I asked one of the airline staff and confirmed what I already knew — this was a clusterfuck! Technology was the culprit here, trust in Coyote had cashed in the chips and we were likely on our own. We explained to the airline staff our situation and listened closely to our options. Time was against us. We had not expected to be divided so abruptly, but this was the immediate situation we faced. We knew there were steps and procedures that would be taken by British Airways, but in all likelihood, Queena and Sarah would be in Glasgow, while Tina an I would be waiting for the next couple of days for a flight out of London.

We weren’t having any of it. The British Airways staff person, a younger man, explained our one option would be to catch the Heathrow express into London, at the Paddington Station, catch the tube to King’s Cross and from there catch the train to Edinburgh. Simple, like catching the rules to Quidditch on a whim and expect to snag the Golden Snitch on the first go round. And to top it off, we just had a little over 3 hours to do this. Okay, I thought, which way is London.

Tina and I waited, making certain Queena and Sarah were well on their way to catch their connecting flight later in the day. Actually, Tina did while I remained in a frantic state of mind, memorizing the directions given by the very polite British Airways staff. One thing I have to admit, watching the world collapse  around you into complete chaos is much more tolerable with an accompanying soothing British inflection. Alfred was always able to calm down Bruce Wayne, if he had been from New Jersey, Wayne would have decked him a long time ago and crawled off into the cave of bats.

We said our goodbyes and proceeded on our separate journeys to Edinburgh. Tina noted the look of uncertainty and terror in their eyes. But all they needed to do was wait untile their flight was called. The high road in the air and the low road by rail. Trusting luck and a decent sense of direction to assist our respective charges to cross in the next several hours.

The Road to Edinburgh

Like a challenge in some weird game show, Tina and I were Team Rail. No tickets and only verbal instruction. Our first task was to locate the Heathrow Express, whatever and wherever that was. Bags over the shoulders and passports in hand we found our way to the gates that first allowed us into the country. The entry way into England is pretty basic, no stamps, no questions from security guards, and just a gut feeling to jump the precise hoops, then we are on our way. At the gate, the passport is scanned, I look into the camera, the gate doors open and I officially walk into England. Tina did the same at her individual gate. Except, she placed her carry on bag behind her. After a bit of negotiating the gate allowed her entry, bag first.

The next step was to find the Heathrow Express and tickets for the same. We scrambled in the direction we were told, bits of the crowd from the terminal were making their way in the same direction, so my inclination was to follow. Down escalators into the tunnels, we came on the machines to purchase tickets. Information stands were scarce and guess work was the order of the day. This is where college orientation from years ago came in handy. We just need to get into the friggin’ Heathrow Express Class to Paddington. I kept thinking of Bears in yellow slickers. Then there were people waiting next to an enclosed rail. Trusting we were on the right “track”, the train arrived. We walked aboard, sat down on seats and the cars began to move over the rails and into a very dark tunnel

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About thirty minutes later we were at Paddington Station, lugging bags crossed over our shoulders and looking for transport to King’s Cross. Eventually, following signage to the correct platform, we found the “Pink” line to King’s Cross. A very kind Platform Assistant helped me get two tickets and told me where we should wait for the next tube, to take us to Kings Cross. When our ride arrived we walked on board.

By PeterSkuce – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Our ride, I noted is literally a tube. A series of connecting hollow sections forming a single long transport. This must be what the inside of an earthworm looks like, I think. A person can literally see from one end of the cars to the other. I am not sure if this is better than sectioning off the passenger cars individually or not, but I really like the open feel to this moving all inclusive room that keeps everyone together. It is quite possibly a psychological thing, but I am completely on board with it.

I am familiar with this routine as I it is similar to metros all over the world. The announcement over the speaker indicates the upcoming stop. I am glad I have given SIRI a British accent. All for fun but I feel it is a familiar voice providing information. I check the up coming stops with the map displayed on the upper edge of the car. Yes, by all intents and purposes we are heading toward King’s Cross. We are on the Pink line. So far so good. Tina and I lock eyes for a moment, reassuring each of us that all will work out and by evening we should be in Edinburgh. We approach Kings Cross and stop. Tina and I exit the train and the platform into a large enclosed shopping area. Unlike the DC Metro stops, this platform exits directly into the open floor of the center. Tina is hungry bordering on hangry. It has been hours since we have eaten. I set the pace through the mall and Tina follows close behind. I spot a Le Pain, a familiar eatery, as we have eaten at the one in Old Town Alexandria. We find a table and Tina sits down to look at the menu. I decide to take this opportunity to leave the bags with Tina and find the  ticket office for the rail and buy the tickets to Edinburgh. I look over the menu and quickly decide the Portobello Shrum & Tumeric Hummus Tartine looks tasty and quick. I ask Tina to order this and take off.

I find the ticket office on the second level up the escalators. I will have to say, the signage is very helpful, otherwise I would be stopping every other person and making a pest of myself and likely loosing valuable time. There is a line at the ticket office and I stand at the end of it. When I reach the next window opened for business, I tell the gentleman on the other side of the window may need for two tickets to Edinburgh. He looks at me and inquires, “now?” I reply, “yes, now for the next train”, “it’s going to be expensive,” he says. This strikes my weak point and I flinch only for a second, “yes, now,” I answer assuredly, “what time does the train leave?” “4:30” he says. Yikes, look at my watch and that is 35 minutes from now. I purchase two tickets and walk briskly back to Le Pain where Tina is hopefully digging into our food order.

When I get back to the restaurant, I find our table and Tina is sitting there with just the silver in front of her. No water, no drinks, “did you order?” “the waiter just left,” she says. What?! I figure we have no more than ten minutes to get and collect our food. I tell Tina when the train leaves the station and she says we have to leave. I look for the waiter, since he has just left I can cancel our order before he has a chance to place it with the kitchen. But they are not having it. They respond angrily, they have already placed the order! I am like, I’ll pay for it, but we have to leave this minute. Tina has already left the area, “let’s go! we are paying for something we didn’t get.” I get ready to pay anyway, but the host is disgusted and tells me, “no, just forget it!” He’s annoyed, Tina’s annoyed, and I’m annoyed, we’re all on the same page; I won’t wait for him to reconsider, Tina and I are quickly heading in the direction of the trains. It is already 4:15.

On the second level near the ticket office, I inquire as to where the train platforms are located, we are directed to the end towards the exit doors and to the left. It is all very vague and hurried as we are loosing precious seconds. We pass Platform 9 and 3/4 of Harry Potter fame, a crowd of tourists wait in line to take their chance to reach Hogwarts, taking a run towards the wall where a shopping cart is already halfway in.  Finally we reach the platform numbers where our train is already boarding. We insert our tickets into the gate, the doors open and we make our way to the train that will take us to Edinburgh and not a moment too soon!

On Tuesday, we flipped into travel mode. Tina’s sister, Debra, came up by the train to Alexandria with Jun Jun. They are watching the animals, so no worries. Queena and Sarah arrived shortly afterwards. We mentally prepared to make the trip to Dulles where British Air would take care of the rest of the travel leg over the Atlantic Ocean to London, and Glasgow. Every step to this point went without a hitch, unless you count the moment where Google Maps was thwarted by an incoming phone call right about the time Queena was negotiating a direction change. But compensate we did, eventually parking at Dulles and making our way to the checkin with British Air.

It has been a long while since I have been in the Dulles International Terminal. I think 1972, when a group of us from Lynchburg flew down to Miami to the Republican National Convention out of Dulles. That was a flight when the pilot mentioned the construction of Disney World in Orlando when we flew over the soon to be obliterated dark spot at night, known then only as Central Florida

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Progress, tight security, and air travel as a regular mode of transportation has transformed the whole experience. Waiting to board, Tina and I ate Italian, Queena and Sarah made their way to Five Guys for burgers and fries. We waited to board the plane. We met a couple from Pittsburgh on our same flight heading to Africa. The waiting area at Gate 44 filed up with a number of people, including a younger man in red shorts, dred head and wearing a top-hat. Sarah and I planked, she for 5 minutes and me for 3.

When the announcement to board the plane was given, we lined up in the various queues according to ticket status. First Class passengers were boarded into their respective cubicles, the rest of us, Economy Passengers, were lined up and filed into the rest of the plane and into our seats accordingly. The rows of seats in three groups of three lined all the way to the rear. Normal sites for frequent travelers but still amazing for those like me who managed to keep away from this mode of traveling for at least six years.

A wide eye moment for me, as I noted in these cramp quarters with Tina beside me, Queena and Sarah in the adjacent seats across the isle, a small touch screen and access to in-flight entertainment located on the back of the headrest directly in front of me.

Everyone was seated and mentally preparing for the takeoff as the plane began to taxi toward the runway. The plane slowed and stopped, after a few minutes the pilot announced a delay as the flight information was not downloading into the flight controls as expected. A portent of things to come, but we were ignorant of any issues. We remained patiently on the tarmac waiting for runway access for nearly an hour, before the plane began to make it’s way into takeoff position. The pilot assured us we would make up time when in the air so as not to be too delayed at our first stop in London. Soon the taxiing aircraft was acquiring accelerating speed, moving down the runway in the dark. Eventually we felt the rise of the nose and the wheels leaving the ground below us as the plane lifted off into the night sky. From the window view we could see the lights of Northern Virginia, the District, and the surrounding areas receed into a quilt of lights linked by tiny threads linking the cities below.

I watched the screen in front of me indicating the location of our flight over a map display. In the corner of the screen an information window indicated airspeed, altitude, and estimated arrival time in London Heathrow; 11:35. Our connecting flight was scheduled to depart for Glasgow at 11:50. A slight concern that I made no mention of, trusting the pilot’s reassurance that we would make up for any delay in the take-off time.

Window shades had been drawn shortly after takeoff at the instructions of the flight attendants, so we were isolated from any note of the minus 70 degree world at 36,000 feet, nearer to space than to the nurturing environment of our life nurturing mother. Many slept restlessly as I did, our takeoff was just before midnight. Food and refreshment carts were rolled up the aisles between the seats offering wine, soda, or water along with snacks. Later on the flight attendant offered us a hot meal of vegetarian or chicken served in an aluminum dish with plastic forks. A feast for 200 at the table hurling at around six hundred miles per hour skipping over the limits of the atmospheric edges of the planet. This dreamlike experience replaying scenes from Kubrick’s space odessy and fueled by a slight buzz from party bottles of gin, whiskey, and wine. Partying passengers counting on the designated pilot to get us to the curb of our destination by morning.

After what seemed like days sitting in one upright position, I caught a line of light coming through the window at the bottom of the shade. We had caught the dawn playing chicken with the rising sun. Like Charles Lindberg’s  1927 flight across the Atlantic, except we had traveled six times his speed. This was the stuff of his dreams and countless others whose shoulders the travel industry was built on.

The flight attendants instructed the bleary eyed passengers to open the drawn window shades, revealing the coast of England as we made our approach to Heathrow and the mess that we were yet to find under the tree of gifts.